Why do I have oily skin?

Pollution, stress and eating habits are factors that influence the appearance of oily skin and make not only teenagers but also adults have this problem.

Oily skin is due to a disorganization of the epidermis at two levels:

1. Irregular sebaceous synthesis: the production of fat is greater than normal and uneven, mainly on the forehead, nose and perioral area.

2. Poor skin renewal (dyskeratosis): dead cells of the horny layer are not eliminated properly. In addition, there is an accelerated and abnormal proliferation of keratinocytes of the sebaceous glands, which thus block the entrance of the pore, forming microcomedones.

These two factors are the main reasons why oily skin has shinier areas (due to excess sebum), enlarged pores and uneven skin texture (due to epidermal disorganization or dyskeratosis).

• Oily skin can generate a major dermatological problem, which is acne. This alteration presents a series of characteristic signs
• Increased sebum production
• Increased bacterial activity on the skin.
• Inflammation of the skin.

These reasons make acneic skin manifest as macules, papules, pustules, and even nodules and cysts.

Keyword for acne: sebaceous gland

Sebaceous glands are distributed throughout the skin of the human body, except on the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet. The size of the sebaceous glands varies depending on their location. The areas of the body where the glands are largest and most numerous are the face, especially the forehead, and the upper back. Most of the sebaceous glands in these areas are linked to a hair follicle, giving rise to the pilosebaceous follicle.

In the sebaceous gland, there are three types of cells: undifferentiated, differentiated and mature. Near the basement membrane are undifferentiated cells, which are pushed into the exit duct, becoming differentiated cells that contain lipids. As they mature, the cells become loaded with lipids inside, eventually disintegrating and expelling the acellular sebaceous secretion outside the duct. Enzymes, such as acid hydrolases, play a very important role in the final autolysis.

Skin problems caused by acne

An irregular relief

Deficient cell renewal of the stratum corneum, combined with excessive production of fats, means that these lipids cannot go outside in their entirety and accumulate inside the pilosebaceous follicle, producing an irregular relief on the skin.

Enlarged pore

Dilated pores can occur in all skin types, but they are more characteristic of oily, acne-prone skin. Since this type of skin produces excess sebum, the walls of the pilosebaceous follicle are deformed. This results in skin with very open pores, mainly on the cheeks, nose and forehead.

Localized highlights

Localized shine on the face is directly associated with excess lipid production in the pilosebaceous follicle. This excess fat that rises to the surface of the skin generates a shiny appearance in the so-called T zone: forehead and nose.

Clogged pore

In oily skin with acneic tendency, this imperfection is frequently found: the excess fat produced does not completely exit outside the pilosebaceous follicle, but a part remains residual in the outermost part of the duct, forming a plug and obstructing the pore. This is how the basic lesion called comedone is formed, a small inflammation of the pore that houses the sebum in the follicle. The characteristic black color of the comedone is not due to dirt, as is sometimes believed, but to the accumulation of melanin. Another theory postulates that the air oxidizes the lipids that make up this oily plug, transforming it into a dark brown color. This comedone is commonly called a "blackhead". The manifestation of comedones on the face determines that it is non-inflammatory acne.

Redness

Redness is a manifestation of skin inflammation. The reddish appearance of a certain area of ​​the skin may be associated with a future pimple. Sometimes the entire skin is slightly red and this may be due to the fact that excess synthesized lipids can be irritating.

Imperfections

The obstruction of the closed hair follicle canal by an accumulation of sebum and corneocytes becomes an ideal breeding ground for fungi and bacteria that normally inhabit the skin, such as Sthaphylococcus epidermis , Pityrosporum ovale , Pityrosporum orbiculare , and Propionebacterium acnes . The latter is the most abundant and a habitual resident of the follicle.

What ingredients are helpful for acne-prone skin?

1. Active ingredients regulating sebum

• This group includes: Sulfur molecules, amino acids or derivatives that regulate excessive sebaceous secretion: thioxolone, cysteine, s-carboxymethyl cysteine, thiazolidine carboxylic acid, etc.
• Zinc salts are also used because they control sebaceous hypersecretion in oily or pre-acne skin.
• Blends of plant extracts with antiseborrheic and astringent properties such as Arnica montana, Betuna alba, Cupresus sempervirens, CBD, Rosmarinus officinalis, Urtica ureas, juniper, etc.
• Vegetable oils enriched with linoleic acid (a type of omega-6 fatty acid) such as sunflower, safflower and evening primrose oil, hemp oil, etc. To learn more about linoleic acid, check out our article HERE.
• Pumpkin seed oil extract, Cucurbita pepo, which contains 80% unsaturated fats. It blocks dihydrotestosterone receptors in the cells of the sebaceous glands, thus preventing the formation of sebum.

2. Active ingredients that prevent follicle obstruction

• These are active ingredients that balance the development of keratin that clogs the pores of the follicles, prevent the formation of new comedones and help drain existing comedones, thus also preventing inflammation:
• Sulfur, resorcinol and salicylic acid are frequently used as keratolytics at low concentrations, as they are not very irritating to oily skin, since they promote superficial desquamation and prevent obstruction of the follicular canal, thus improving the drainage of excess sebum towards the outside of the follicle.
• Some cosmetics are formulated with abrasive active ingredients, to improve skin renewal without sensitizing it.
• Salicylic acid solubilizes the intercellular cement, exerting a keratoregulatory action; it is miscible with the sebaceous substances accumulated in the follicle and promotes their expulsion to the outside.
• Alpha-hydroxy acids - glycolic, lactic, pyruvic, malic, etc. - decrease the cohesion of keratinocytes in the stratum corneum, stimulate cell renewal and improve skin hydration. The most widely used is glycolic acid.
• Vitamin A derivatives, such as retinaldehyde, regulate keratinization abnormalities thanks to their retinoid function and fight against the proliferation of P. acnes, thanks to their aldehyde radical. They therefore act by preventing follicle obstruction and possible infection. In other cosmetics we have found vitamin A palmitate.

3. Moderators of bacterial proliferation

• These are substances that reduce the number of bacteria inside the follicles by various chemical processes: Octopyrox / glycacil combination. It is effective in combating bacterial proliferation.
• Benzoyl peroxide. This is one of the most used active ingredients in acne. It has antibacterial, keratolytic and anti-inflammatory properties. It acts by forming oxygen ions that are toxic to germs. The disadvantage of this molecule is its irritating and exfoliating potential, which can cause irritation, flaking and even dermatitis in the patient. This is why it is generally advisable to start treatment with a low dose and increase it when these side effects are tolerated.
• Azelaic acid. It is an organic acid, called dicarboxylic, which slows the growth of infectious agents such as Staphylococcus aureus and P. acnes . It also inhibits the activity of 5alpha reductase, thus regulating the synthesis of skin fats. In addition, it modifies the differentiation of keratinocytes.
• Nicotinamide, niacinamide, or vitamin PP. It inhibits neutrophil chemotaxis and mast cell degranulation, so it has an antibacterial and anti-inflammatory action.
• It inhibits the activity of P. acnes and P. ovale, in addition to having anti-inflammatory properties.
• Cetrimonium chloride. It acts as an antibacterial agent.

4. Anti-inflammatories

• This group includes: Zinc gluconate. It inhibits the secretion of lipases by P. acnes and also inhibits neutrophil chemotaxis, thus preventing the inflammatory process.
• It has bactericidal, emollient and anti-inflammatory properties.

Skincare routine for acne-prone skin

Treatments to correct facial seborrhea should first aim to establish a daily cleansing habit, which removes excess sebum from the skin.

To clean

For oily skin, the habit of cleaning with a specific cosmetic is essential, as this prevents the accumulation of sebum on the surface of the skin.

Facial cleansing for oily skin is based on the use of cosmetics with a low percentage of lipids. It should be borne in mind that some lipids are comedogenic and have a high detergent power.

For cleaning oily skin, both synthetic soaps and hydroalcoholic gels are used, because their texture is pleasant and very refreshing. It is important to cleanse the skin in the morning and evening, removing the cleansing cosmetic with plenty of water.

Hydrate

It is very important that, from the pharmaceutical cabinet, we insist on the hydration of oily or acne-prone skin, since many clients have the misconception that oily skin does not need to be hydrated. The synthesis of excess fat has no direct relationship with skin hydration, we can even find oily skin dehydrated. Therefore, we recommend a moisturizer with a very low lipid content, in order to maintain the optimal level of skin hydration.

Likewise, it should be noted that it is not necessary to scratch, touch or rub the lesions.

Inner and outer balance

Since there is no single cause of acne in the skin, such as hormonal factors, exposure to extreme climates, stress, endocrine alterations, certain tumors and the use of certain medications, it is important to find balance in the skin through inner and outer balance. 

Protect from the sun

It is essential to expose yourself to the sun with adequate sun protection, looking for formulas with low lipid content. The sun tends to improve acne, although in some cases the lesions worsen some time after exposure. This is due to the fact that the sun increases the thickness of the stratum corneum and the fat does not go outward. When the skin stops receiving solar radiation, the stratum corneum thins, returns to its normal thickness and all the fat accumulated during the summer comes out. This phenomenon is often called "post-vacation rebound acne".

Exfoliate

In this type of skin it is advisable to use an exfoliating cosmetic at least once a week, as they remove the most superficial dead cells of the horny layer and dirt from the pores, thus avoiding the formation of pimples or blackheads.